I sent out many requests and got declined many times, but
luckily I did getone invite and that was from Menno. He lived right in
Amsterdam and his place was one level. There was only a small step to get into
the washroom. He was extremely welcoming and always made sure I was
comfortable. He originally let me stay for only 2 nights, but after meeting me
let me stay for the whole 4 nights I was in Amsterdam. What made my stay with
Menno most unique was how much pot we smoked together. Menno’s garden had these
very tall pot plants as you can see from this photo. Of course, if you go to
Amsterdam, you have to smoke. I don’t smoke a lot to begin with, but his stuff
was pure and very smooth. We had many interesting conversations. Great guy!
ACCESSIBILITY
Streets
marked curb cut
Getting around in Amsterdam on the street is fairly easy in
a wheelchair because the city is flat and bicycles seem to be the main mode of
transportation. There are bicycle lanes integrated into every street and crossing
the network of streets and bike lanes took a couple of days to get used to. The
only issue you will have are cobble stones. Some areas are more challenging
than others. For example, the cobble stones on most pedestrian paths are flat
and require little extra effort. Whereas the cobblestone in places like Dam
Square are very bumpy and require lots of energy. But I say bring on the cobblestone because
it’s still better than having a bunch of stairs stop you in your tracks. Another annoying thing is that cyclists like
to park their bikes anywhere on the sidewalk, turning them into a slalom
course.
Shops, restaurants, buildings
I was getting really frustrated the first few days because I
could not get into any stores on my own. Every place has at least a few steps
to get in. After a few days I just said to myself screw it, this isn’t North
America, so don’t be pissed it’s not North America. Whenever I wanted to go
upstairs, I simply asked strangers to help me.
I had to swallow my pride, but at least I wasn’t denying myself the
experience I wanted to have. The planet is not always accessible and sometimes
you just have to adapt.
Washrooms
Finding accessible washrooms will not be easy. Getting
inside a shop is challenging enough, but usually the washroom will be located
downstairs or not accessible period. Your best bet is to find a nice hotel. For
the first time on a trip, I did plenty of back alley urination simply because I
had no other choice. Hey, sometimes you gotta do whatcha gotta do.
Transportation
Amsterdam is a small city and very walkable. I only used
public transit on my first and last day when I was commuting to the airport.
The trams are all accessible. The accessible entrance is at the rear door.
There is no discount for the disabled.
The Dutch Railway trains, which is what you take from the
airport into Amsterdam, has several steps to get on. There are manual lifts
located on the platform, but finding staff to help you is another story.
Apparently, you have to book ‘disabled assistance’ a week in advance which I
think is absolutely ridiculous. It takes 5min for an employee to get a key,
operate the lift, and help me onto the train.
When I was leaving Amsterdam and returning to the airport,
this employee at Centraal Station became irate because I needed assistance, but
had not booked in advance. He flat out told me I wasn’t getting on the train,
and I said I have a flight to catch so I’ll ask people to help me. Then he
started going off about how if one of them got hurt helping me then who would
be responsible and blah, blah, blah. In
the end, he found staff to help me on the trains and I thanked him politely. I
didn’t fire back at him for fear he might not help the next guy. Anyway, he was
a total dick, but fortunately that kind of attitude is extremely rare.
ATTRACTIONS / SIGHTSEEING
Dam Square
A warning about navigation – Amsterdam is an extremely
confusing city to get around. On my first day, I bought a city map that didn’t
help at all. Street names are difficult to find and not all streets are on the
map. So if you can’t even find out where you are on the map, then that map
isn’t of much use. As beautiful as the city is with the bike lanes and canals,
every street looks exactly the same! I was using a paper map and Google Maps on
my smartphone, and I still got lost constantly! Instead of a grid, the city is
a web of canals, so it’s difficult to know if you’re going north, south, east
or west. Let’s just say I had to ask for directions a lot.
one of many
coffee shops
Amsterdam’s famous Red Light District was rather
underwhelming. I was expecting pure debauchery, but what I experienced was far
from it. Of course, there are the many coffee shops where you can peruse a menu
of various marijuana products. I did do this a couple of times because you kind
of have to when in Amsterdam. There are also many prostitutes flaunting their
goods in the windows. Some are absolutely gorgeous and some… well, not so
gorgeous. But what I wasn’t expecting were the busloads of tourists and parents
pushing their children in strollers all around the Red Light District. It made
the place feel like some kind of theme park where instead of rides and games,
there are hookers and pot.
My favourite area was Leidseplein where you’ll find many
stores, bars, and nightclubs. There are also hotels and hostels. After my first
night, I spent 3 nights in a row partying here. My favourite clubs were No. 129
and Van Dyke Bar. One night at 3am, I randomly met Adam Kellerman who is a
Paralympic wheelchair tennis player from Australia.
The only museum I managed to go to was the Van Gogh Museum.
It was much smaller than I thought and it didn’t even have the only Van Gogh
piece that I know – Starry Night (which is actually in New York). Dam Square is
a cool place, but is completely covered in cobblestone making for a bumpy ride.
There’s lots of people around and there’s shopping.
Dutch breakfast
One of my most memorable moments was this one morning when I
chose to have a sit-down brunch at a random café I found just a few blocks from
Menno’s place. It was around 10am and a gorgeous warm, sunny day. I was sitting
outside facing the canal, watching trams and people on their bicycles going by.
At one point the draw-bridge opened up so a boat could pass underneath. The
breakfast was the most delicious I had ever had – potatoes, eggs, bacon (not
the greasy and salty American kind either), tomatoes, beans, bread, and fresh
orange juice. Everything just felt very European.
I met Corinne kind of randomly when I
responded to a question she posted on a couchsurfing forum. She’s a Swiss girl
who is also in a wheelchair and happened to be in London the same time as me. We spent a day
together in London
and we just got along really well, like old friends. I knew that I had to go
see her in Switzerland.
It was really nice and special to travel with someone else who is also in a
wheelchair. We have the same needs. We both need elevators, ramps, and
accessible washrooms. I didn’t feel bad for having to drag someone to find an
accessible route because she needs one too.
Corinne was absolutely an amazing host. She
picked me up at the Lucerne train station and
immediately showed me around Lucerne.
For our first dinner together she made cheese fondue – traditional swiss food.
She showed me around a special hospital in Nottwil for people who have had
spinal cord injuries. She even took me to her parents’ house where they made
traditional Swiss Raclette.
Since I started couchsurfing in 2009, I
have always chosen the destination city first and then looked for hosts after.
However, this is the first time I travelled to a place specifically to visit a
couchsurfer and that’s what made this part of my trip very special. We are
similar in the sense that even though we have a disability, it doesn’t stop us
from doing the things we love like traveling and couchsurfing! My time with
Corinne will always be one of my most memorable couchsurfing experiences ever.
ACCESSIBILITY
Transportation
Airport
Riding the private shuttle from the
terminal to the plane
I flew into ZurichInternationalAirport and didn’t have
any problems there. My plane was a small one that you board right on the tarmac
and the only way to get on and off is with the staircase. In London, they used a power-assisted wheelchair
that ‘climbs’ the stairs. In Zurich,
I got into my own wheelchair and rolled into this tall box-shaped vehicle that
drove me to the main terminal. I was the only passenger who got to ride in this
contraption, so I felt pretty special.
Trains
The train station is underneath the airport
and from there you can pretty much get to anywhere in Switzerland. I did notice that some
of the trains have a very high step to get up. If this is the case, then you
have to ask for special assistance and then they will get out a ramp or lift.
The train that I took to and from Lucerne
was flush with the platform, but had about a foot long gap to go over. Be sure
to pop a wheelie to get on!
I never actually took a bus since Corinne
had a car, but they are all accessible.
ATTRACTIONS / SIGHTSEEING
Everyone is really friendly in Switzerland.
It’s very clean, the grass is bright green, but this country is pretty much the
most expensive country in all of Europe.
The famous ChapelBridge in Lucerne has several steps to go up. Now there
is a lift to get up, but it barely works and is super slow. And top it off, you
need a special key! Swiss residents can get a ‘universal’ key that it used all
over the country like these lifts, washrooms etc. But if you’re a tourist, I
have no idea what you’re supposed to do.
On the Lake Lucerne boat tour
I hosted Sabrina in 2010 in Vancouver, and since I was traveling so close to her home
town of Zug, I
definitely wanted to meet up with her. She took me on the LakeLucerne
boat tour which I really enjoyed. The 1hr tour is 25 francs and your
‘attendant’ gets on for free! Only the main deck is accessible (of course), but
there are nice views from the stern of the boat.
Sursee city is a really nice historical
part of town, but there are cobblestones everywhere. I managed to do it, but it
was a lot of work.
Hotel Montana Luzern has this really cool
elevator that goes up the side of a cliff and it’s fully accessible. Once at
the top, you can have drinks outside on the terrace where you can enjoy
beautiful views of Lucerne.
Pilatus Luzern gondola
Piliatus Luzern is a gondola ride that I
did on my last day. We were pressed for time and didn’t do the entire route,
but we did do a small portion of it. I don’t think this attraction is
technically wheelchair accessible, but we made it work. Each car is pretty
small. The operator stopped the ride completely (everyone else on the ride was
probably thinking “what’s going on?”) and helped each of us up a big step to
get inside. He literally had to push, maneuver, and lift both of us. I still
have no idea how we both managed to fit in with our wheelchairs, but somehow we
did it. And I’m glad we did too because I got to see some amazing views!
For months, I was trying to decide where to go for my
vacation this year. I have always loved the Olympics and Paralympics, so I
thought I would go to London
and watch the Paralympic Games. This was my first time outside Canada/U.S. I
have always been hesitant to travel outside North America
because I knew the accessibility would not be the same as it is here. Not only
is the accessibility comparable to here, this trip opened my eyes to new
cultures and experiences. Bottom line: there’s a whole lot more to see in this
world outside North America.
COUCHSURFING
I stayed with a record 3 different hosts on my London trip and also made
many friends – all through couchsurfing. When I look back on this trip, I
realize that I was with people almost every single day. What really made this
trip special were the people I met and the relationships that were made.
Dan and Fay
My first host was a young couple who lived on the outskirts
of London. It
was a place called Chorleywood, which is literally the 2nd last stop
on the Metropolitan Underground line. It took me almost 2 hours to get there
from Gatwick Airport. Dan and Fay are a wonderful
couple and they lived in this cozy little apartment just a 5 minute walk from
Chorleywood station. Upon my arrival, Fay gave me the Official Paralympic Guide
book as a gift because I told them that was my main reason for coming to London. That was the
first time a host had given me a gift and I thought it was very sweet of them.
We explored the city like tourists and on my first full day
they took me to see the Houses of Parliament, Westminster Abbey, Trafalgar Square, Buckingham Palace,
Piccadilly Circus, and even stopped in a
traditional English pub where I had steak and kidney pie.
However, we did have one mild setback. The elevator in their
building broke one night and Dan had to carry me up to this apartment. Luckily,
he lives on only the 2nd floor! The elevator was fixed the next day.
Don
I stayed with Don for a few days in south London
near Clapham Junction and Wimbledon. He’s got a
nice apartment in the 8th floor of a building with great views of London. His apartment was
mostly acceptable except for the bathroom. It was too small to get my chair in
so I had to transfer out. The shower was completely out of question since it
was a stand-up shower with a step to get in. Otherwise, the rest of the place
was good and I slept on a big comfy couch. We watched a film on the origins of
the Paralymics Games and had brunch one morning at a French cafe.
Bhavik and I watching the Paralympic
Opening Ceremonies in Trafagar Square
Bhavik originally couldn’t host me at all, but I ended up
staying with him for more than a week. He is from India
and was living in London
for 4 months on a work project. He lived in East London
in a serviced apartment where there was a pullout sofabed in the living room
with its own door. We even had housekeeping so it was pretty much like living
in a hotel! I had actually planned on staying in a hotel in central London for at least a
couple of days on this trip, but since Bhavik was so much fun to hang out with
and he invited me to stay longer, I just stayed with him the remainder of my
time.
I actually met Bhavik before surfing with him. He invited me
to a do the London Eye and party with a bunch of other couchsurfers. During my
week with Bhavik, we went to a lot of bars and nightclubs and partied with many
other couchsurfers, including some who also stayed with us. I don’t normally
spend so much time in bars and clubs, but the nightlife in London is absolutely amazing.
ACCESSIBILTY
I don’t know what London
was like before the Paralympics, but I found getting around to be very easy. I
saw many people in wheelchairs. I would rate the accessibility just as good as
any eastern North American city.
North Americans use the term ‘wheelchair accessible’, but
the British seem to like the term ‘step-free’ to mean the same thing. I like
using ‘step-free’ because it’s more descriptive and precise. Step-free means
just that – no steps!
Public washrooms (restrooms, toilets)
We definitely need these buttons in
Canada, if you know what I mean
When you’re out and about, finding an accessible washroom is
always a concern. I found the easiest solution was to find a café like
Starbucks or Pret a Manger which are everywhere. Just keep in mind that if
there’s a step to get in, there could still be a fully accessible washroom room
inside and if the entrance is level, there may not even be an accessible
washroom. All of these washrooms will have a call/emergency button which I
assume notifies the staff.
the high-tech toilet in Westfield Mall
In Westfield Mall in Stratford,
there is the most high-tech wheelchair accessible washroom I have every seen.
It’s about the size of an apartment, has height-adjustable sink, and changing
table with hydraulic lift!
Shops
Some shops and restaurants have a level entrance, but many
have a step or two to get in. If that’s the case, ask if they have a ramp,
which many do. I can pull myself up one step, but two requires help or a ramp.
Streets
London
is very flat and I don’t remember encountering any major hills. There are curb
cuts at every street. However, London
is a very busy city and many areas are heavily congested with pedestrians. Some
areas have cobblestone, like Covent Garden,
but they can be easily avoided by going around the outside.
Transportation
Airport
I flew in and out of London
through Gatwick Airport which is very accessible. If you
need any kind of special assistance, any personnel will gladly help you. I
remember near the arrivals area, there are super nice accessible washrooms.
Underground (Tube)
Disabled space on a newer Tube train
The London Underground is the main mode of transportation
around the city, but only about 20% of the stations are accessible. The ones
that are accessible are done properly. Navigating the system can be quite
complicated. It’s similar to the New York City
subway, but London
does a much better job of making it accessible.
There is a very good transit website where you can even plan
a step-free route. I used this all the time. www.tfl.gov.uk
There’s a Step-free tube guide which you can get online and on paper which
shows you all of the accessible stations. Keep in mind there’s a difference
between step-free from street to platform and step-free from street to train.
The latter means there is a step, anywhere from a few inches to a foot, from
the platform to the train. If that’s the case and you can’t get up on your own,
find a transit staff and ask for assistance. They will put down a ramp for you
and radio the station where you’re getting off and someone there will put the
ramp down for you.
There’s lots of transit staff around to help you. Unlike NY
where no one helps you. The signage is also very good. There are plenty of
signs directing you to the elevators and step-free routes. And best of all, I
never encountered a broken elevator. They may have been slow, but at least they
worked. Unlike NY where there were broken elevators everywhere. Sorry to bash
NY. Great city, but I hate their subway with a passion.
One last note: there is no discount for disabled persons on
the Tube unless you’re a UK
resident. You have to pay full price and it’s expensive. I spent more on public
transit in London
than I have in any other city.
Buses
As I stayed closer to central London, buses were actually my main form of
transportation because every single one is accessible. And that’s only a recent
improvement for the Olympics. Plus wheelchair users ride absolutely free!
Here’s the setup: As the bus pulls up to the stop, make sure the driver sees
you. You wait at the rear door and an automatic ramp comes out and you
enter/exit through the rear doors. There are two spaces for wheelchair users
with no tie downs or anything. Simple. Effective.
DLR
Stands for Docklands Light Rail. It’s an above-ground train
system very similar to the skytrain here in Vancouver. DLR is located only in the east of
London and
since it’s newer, every train and station is fully accessible without
assistance. This is how I commuted to Stratford
to watch the Paralympics.
National Railway and Gatwick Express
This is an older railway system that I only took a couple of
times. They operate within London and to other
cities in England.
You will definitely need an agent to help you. They will put down a manual ramp
for you to get on and off because the step up is quite high. The Gatwick
Express takes you directly from Gatwick
Airport into central London. It’s pricey, but it has no stops so
your travel time is cut in half.
Taxis
I only took a taxi once and it’s an interesting setup.
Unlike in Canada where you
have to specifically request a wheelchair accessible taxi, in London every taxi is accessible. The backdoor
opens wide and an automatic ramp comes out, the backseats go up and there are
straps if you want them. It is a bit tight there even with my small manual
chair. I’m pretty sure it wouldn’t be big enough for a powerchair, but I’m sure
there are bigger taxis to accommodate powerchair users.
PARALYMPICS
Now for the main reason for coming to London in the first place – to see the 2012
Paralympic Games! I remember how amazing the games were here in 2010, and I
wanted to relive that experience.
London Olympic Park
First of all, getting tickets to the games turned out to be
quite challenging. There was no physical ticket office. You could only buy
tickets online, but you had to be a UK
resident with a UK address
and have a UK
credit card. As a Canadian (or any foreigner for that matter), I couldn’t buy
my own tickets. And to top it off, many events were sold out. I wanted to see
the opening ceremonies, but the cheapest available was 200£. I ended up
watching the opening ceremonies in Trafalgar
Square on a big screen. I had to have Dan, my
host, buy tickets, but it worked out quite well. He called in, because you
can’t buy wheelchair tickets online, and managed to get tickets for men’s
wheelchair basketball on the first day of competition for only 15£ - and the
attendant was free! But wait, it gets even better.
The Olympic Park is located in Stratford,
in east London.
The place is massive! Your ticket gives you access to the whole park which has
the Olympic Stadium, Aquatics Centre, Basketball Arena, Velodrome, several
soccer fields, tennis courts, Copper box, plus the Olympic Store, the two
largest McDonald’s in the world, Westfield Mall, and the Athletes’ Village.
Men's wheelchair basketball
Our basketball tickets allowed us to watch all basketball
games that day. We watched US
vs Turkey in the morning and
CANADA vs Japan in the afternoon. I was quite
happy I got to see Canada
compete since I know a few of the players. There were more games in the
evening, but we had had enough so we checked out the rest of the park. Our
ticket also allowed us to watch a women’s goalball Great
Britain vs China. Throughout the day we
checked out the other sports venues, ate at McDonald’s and purchased Paralympic
merchandise. Even though this was the only Paralympic tickets I was able to
get, I was extremely satisfied with the experience.
ATTRACTIONS / SIGHTSEEING
Big Ben
On my first day in Central London
I saw the Houses of Parliament and
the famous Big Ben. Unfortunately,
it wasn’t open to the public. Next I visited Westminster Abbey. It may be more than 1000 years old, but they
made almost every part of it accessible. A few areas had steps or narrow
passageways and because of this anyone in a wheelchair and their attendant is
free!
Buckingham Palace
is not open to the public, but it’s quite a sight to see even from the outside.
Trafalgar Square was where the
Olympic Clock was located, but I’m sure it’s not there anymore. Piccadilly Circus
and Leicester Square are within walking
distance and also a must-see.
One day I did the Big
Red Bus tour which has fully accessible buses. You have to sit on the
bottom deck of course, but it’s still worth it. It costs £29 for a 24hr ticket
which also includes a free Thames River Cruise and free walking tours. I don’t
normally do tours, but this one is a good idea to do at the beginning of your trip
to give you an idea of what’s around, and then later on you can visit the
attractions you’re interested in.
Tower Bridge with the Paralympic symbols
There is step-free access right across the famous Tower Bridge and on the south side
there is a brand new plaza and fountain area which is all flat.
Highest point on the London Eye
The London Eye is
an amazing attraction and one of the highlights of my whole trip. Don’t let
someone tell you it’s just a Ferris wheel because it’s so much better than
that. It costs £15 and the attendant is free. Wheelchair users can go to the
front of the line which is very convenient because the lineup is very long.
They’ll stop the London Eye and put a ramp down for you. Inside the capsule you
can roll around easily and enjoy amazing views of London!
I unique aspect of London
I really liked where the pedestrian-only streets. My favourite was Carnaby
Street. There’s cool artwork and shops and
pubs. Keep in mind many have a step or two to get in, but just ask if they have
a ramp and most likely they will. Even the alleys were nice. In Vancouver, the alleys are
dirty, unlit and usually have junkies shooting up or using them as a public
toilet. But in London,
they are very clean and even nice to look at for the architecture.
Kensington Gardens
Another great thing about London is all the city parks. For such a
large, metropolitan city, I was really surprised at how much green space there
was. One of my favourite places was Kensington Gardens
where you’ll find Kensington Palace
and the Albert Memorial. You can
spend hours wondering through Hyde Park and walk along the ponds. Every park has
paved paths so you’ll have no trouble getting around.
Another favourite place (I seem to have many) is Covent Garden which I would compare to Granville Island
in Vancouver.
There are plenty of unique shops and merchants selling art, crafts and typical
fare you would find at a farmer’s market. Be sure to visit The Icecreamists
where you find some ‘unique’ flavours of ice cream. The only annoying part
about Covent Garden was the cobblestone, but
you can avoid them by going around the outside.
I was planning on visiting many museums because I heard they
were mostly free, but I actually only managed to see one: the British Museum.
No admission fee here. I literally spent 6 hours here and probably could have
spent more if the place didn’t close so early (5pm). I was absolutely
fascinated by everything in sight and since this is one of the few activities I
did alone, I was able to take my time and just relax and enjoy myself.
NIGHTLIFE
Couchsurfers having drinks at the
Piccadilly Institute
London
made me enjoy nightlife again. The nightclubs here are extraordinary and make Vancouver’s nightclubs
look like broom closets. The first one I went to was the Piccadilly Institute with other couchsurfers. It has 3 floors and
they even had an elevator! Each floor has different DJs and music. Multiple dance
floors and a lounge area.
Camden town is apparently known for the
market, but I enjoyed it for the nightlife. There’s a beautiful network of
canals and bridges. Combine that with cobblestone and getting around in a chair
is a challenge, but with some help it can be done. I loved this one nightclub I
was taken to called Shaka Zulu. It
had its own escalator! There were huge African-inspired art and sculptures. The
place pretty much looked like a museum instead of nightclub. Amazing.
Another great area is Huxton Square
where I partied and bar-hopped. The thing I found about London is that it’s really easy to meet and
talk to other people, especially when you’re out drinking.
My last night night in London at
Chinawhite nightclub
On my last night in London,
I was invited to a VIP party hosted by a couchsurfer at a nightclub called Chinawhite near Oxford Circus. No elevator here, so I had to get carried down some
steep stairs by my friend and the bouncer. I was taken through four different
rooms, and more stairs, before we finally hit the VIP area. There were comfy
couches, private bar and dance floor, hot ladies and free vodka for the night.
What more could you really ask for?
I spent a lot of money on my London trip, even though I didn't spend a dime on accommodation, but it was worth every penny. It was by far the best trip I have ever taken. What made it really special was the amazing people I met who will be friends for life. The accessibility was far better than I ever expected. So far, London is the only city I have visited where I would actually want to live.
In Jun 2011, I purchased a new Honda after my 1992 Honda
Civic decided to die on me. What better way to break in a new car than a
kick-ass road trip! So in September, I journeyed on a solo road trip through
the western United States.
Over 17 days, I drove my new Honda Fit 7000 kms through 7 states.
Originally, I had planned to just visit Portland for a few days. Then I decided I
wanted to see the Oregon
coast. And then I thought why not make this a long road trip and drive all the
way to see the Grand Canyon! I could also
check out Las Vegas
while I was in that area. So I built a road trip around that.
For those who don’t know, I drive with simple hand controls
and spinner knob. There is a lever on the left side just below the turn signal.
I pull back for gas and push forward to brake. Since I have to steer with one
hand, there is a knob at the 2 o’clock position on the steering wheel that
enables me to make turns more easily. Anyone else can drive my car since the
petals are unaffected. To get in the car with my wheelchair, I pop the
quick-release wheels off and place them behind the front passenger seat, and
then I lift the frame over my body and rest it on the back seat. I do all of
that in reverse when I get out and that’s all there is to it.
Sleeping in the car is fun!
My accommodations were a mix of couchsurfing, motels, and
sleeping in my car. Since my Honda has seats that fold all the way down flat, I
thought I could turn it into a makeshift camper. I bought a self-inflating air
mattress and sleeping bag and slept in the back. Of course, I had to rearrange
all my other gear and wheelchair. My wheels fit nicely on the dashboard, the
frame propped up on the passenger seat. Food and various other items went on
the driver’s seat and my suitcase of clothes was propped up vertically right
beside me. Oh yeah, and I had to sleep in an ‘S’ position, even with my short
legs. It may have been cozy, but it was comfortable enough to sleep for the
night. When traveling spontaneously and driving on the road all day, it’s just
so convenient to be able to pull over somewhere and crash for the night, rather
than making arrangements with a couchsurfing host or trying to find a motel.
Beginning odometer reading
OREGON
Loehn, his girlfriend and I at an
Irish pub
My first stop on this road trip was PortlandOR.
This was my first time to Portland
and I really enjoyed my time here. I couchsurfed with a guy named Loehn, who
also uses a wheelchair. That was actually one of the main reasons why I wanted
to surf with him. Since he was uses a wheelchair too, I knew for sure that his
place would be completely accessible for me.
A'voodoo doll' donut from
Voodoo Donuts
Loehn offered superb hospitality. Due to Seattle traffic, I didn’t arrive until 8 or
9pm. We made dinner together and chatted. The next day, he and his girlfriend,
took me to this Irish restaurant downtown and grabbed some donuts from the
famous Voodoo Donuts.
Portland
is a very wheelchair accessible city. There are some hills, but it was
manageable. All buses and the light rail are fully accessible. Public
transportation is even free in the downtown zone.
On my last day, Loehn took me to the Saturday Market
(picture a huge farmers’ market downtown) and checked out offerings from local
artists and various foods from local producers. We had lunch where Portland is famous for –
food carts!
Exploring Canon Beach with my
Freewheel
Later that day, I left Portland
and headed towards the coast and my first stop was CannonBeach.
This small beach community is absolutely gorgeous and very picturesque.
Unfortunately, I just happened to be there on Labour Day, so it was also very
crowded. It was a beautiful, sunny day though and I loved seeing the miles of
sandy beach and those rock formations that come out of the water.
First night sleeping in my car beside
a barn
After the sun set, I headed south on highway 101 and
starting looking for place I could sleep for the night. I wanted to find a
quiet, secluded place that didn’t have highway traffic zipping by, but I had
trouble finding such a place. And then it got dark. I finally found an open
clearing near a barn and parked my car and got ready to spend my first night
‘camping’ in the car. As I was falling asleep I heard a loud ‘moooo’, followed
by another and another. I looked up and realized I had setup camp right beside
a fence where there were cows. It looks like I chose to sleep on someone’s
farm! Oh well. No harm done.
My travel buddy 'Chris' loves cheese
The next day I drove into Tillamook and visited their famous
cheese factory. They make other dairy products here too, but I think cheese is
the main food. It’s kind of neat to see how cheese is made, plus you get to
sample a bunch of cheeses for free. I picked up some cheese curds on my way
out.
I continued south along 101 and experienced real Oregon coast weather –
fog and mist. It was like that pretty much almost all the way to California. Along the
highway, there are many scenic lookout points, but it can be hit or miss because
with the foggy weather you can barely see in front of you. Along the way, I
picked up this brochure for Sea Lion Caves where they advertised an elevator
that would actually take you down into the caves. However, when I got there, I
learned that you have to go down a flight stairs to get to that elevator. So it
wasn’t accessible after all. I was very disappointed!
In the southern part of the Oregon coast, you get into sand dunes. Now
of course, there’s no way I could get my wheelchair into the sand dunes, but it
was still neat to see.
For my 2nd night sleeping in the car, I drove
into CoosBay and decided to sleep in a Wal-mart
parking lot that I found by searching for it on my GPS. I heard they allowed
overnight parking in their stores that were open 24 hrs. I thought this would
be a good idea, since there is a washroom and also I could buy groceries and
supplies. Well apparently, sleeping in a Wal-mart parking lot is not a well-kept secret because there were plenty of other RVs and cars with fogged up windows.
It was almost like a campground in itself! I managed to find a quiet corner of
the parking lot, but it was so foggy that night that I’m sure no one could even
see my car anyway.
South Oregon Coast
The next day, the sun broke out for a little and I got to
enjoy the OregonCoast
for a bit before I headed into California.
I want to mention that Oregon
was my favourite state to visit. There’s no state sales tax. So the price you
see is the price you pay. There are no self-serve gas stations, meaning they
have to pump gas for you. I also discovered my new favourite store – Fred Meyer
which is kind of like Superstore here in BC. I always bought my groceries and
gas here when I could and it was very cheap.
CALIFORNIA
The only 'Welcome to' sign I was able
to photograph
My first stop in California
was at a visitor center in CrescentCity near RedwoodNational Park. I told
them how long I was there for and what kind of vehicle I had and they were very
helpful in suggesting how to see the famous redwood trees. Unfortunately,
hiking was not an option for me, but luckily there were two self-guided driving
tours that were absolutely amazing.
stopping along Avenue of the Giants
The first tour was on a single lane, hard packed dirt road
where I got to see these remarkable ‘giants’. The speed limit is slow,
something like 5 or 10 miles/hr, but that’s fine because it gives you time to
enjoy the scenery. The brochures don’t lie. These trees are gigantic and some
have been around for more than a thousand years. You can feel like a tiny ant
when looking up at these trees. The second tour was on a paved highway called
the Avenue of Giants. It was actually a scenic detour to Hwy 101. You could
drive faster here, but that means you’re not as close to the trees so this tour
wasn’t as up close and personal as the first tour. However, it still made for a
scenic drive.
For my 3rd night sleeping in the car, I found a
scenic outlook with a gorgeous view of the Pacific Ocean
and tall cliffs. I thought it would be the perfect place to wake up in the
morning. However, as I was getting ready to sleep, this car pulls up and parks
right beside mine. There were a bunch of kids inside and they were blasting
loud music. For the first time on my trip, I felt kind of scared because it was
just my car and theirs out in a remote place. I didn’t know if they were going
to try and break into my car or start shining a flash light inside or what.
Anyway, they all got out and after a short while went for a walk. At which
time I decided to start the car and take off. There was no way I was going to
sleep being that nervous. After some driving, I found the head of a hiking
trail complete with restrooms. It was directly off the highway, not too noisy,
and I was the only one there. So I crashed there for the night.
Driving through a Redwood
tree
The next day I wanted to check out one of those road side
attractions I had read about where you can actually drive through a tree. You
have to pay 6 bucks! There’s no gate attendant so they count on you being
honest and putting your money into a box. And if you’re wondering, I was honest
and paid the full $6. I have to say it was a unique and fun experience that lasted
about 30 seconds, but hey, it’s something I will probably never do again.
I continued south along hwy 101 through northern California where I saw
less ocean and more hilly, grassy terrain. I was headed to see my next host in San Jose where I would
spend a few days checking out the Bay Area. After 3 nights of sleeping in my
car, I needed to sleep in a real bed and have a real shower, so I found through
my GPS a Motel 6 in Santa Rosa, just a few hours
north of San Francisco.
It was very hot that day – the first real heat I had felt on my trip. My room
was ADA
accessible with wide doors, grab bars, and roll in shower. The motel itself was
a bit on the shady side. When I went to the ice machine there were some guys
smoking and drinking outside their rooms. They even offered me to come in for a
drink. I respectfully declined.
The next day I headed towards San
Francisco and drove over the iconic Golden GateBridge.
I had walked back and forth over the bridge a couple of years ago, but driving
over it was another great experience altogether. I wished I could have recorded
driving across, but that would have been awkward and highly dangerous since I
need both hands to drive. By the way, Golden GateBridge
is tolled and will cost $6 going southbound.
hot girl in nurse uniform serving up
donuts? now that's what I'm
talking about!
I met my next host Karl in downtown San
Jose where he showed me around the University of San Jose
where he went to school. He took me to this funky donut shop called Psycho
Donuts where hot girls in nurse uniforms serve up donuts! By the way, in
downtown San Jose,
if you have a handicap parking permit, you can park at any metered spot for
free. I found the same to apply in many other cities too. Karl was born with
the brittle bone disease and thus uses a power chair. Despite that, he gets
around very well and even couchsurfs! I thought me being in a manual chair was
difficult to couchsurf, but he does it in a power chair which I found totally
inspiring. Karl is Vietnamese and lives with his family in a house in San Jose. Of course, the
house was completely accessible.
Facebook and Apple
headquarters
While I was in the Bay Area, my goal was to visit the major
internet and tech companies. I started off at Facebook in Palo Alto. For a multi-billion dollar
company, Facebook headquarters looks like an old public library. I got as far
as the front lobby where I was stopped by security. There are no areas open to
the public. There is however, a pathetic sign in the lobby, where another
couple was getting their pictures with. That’s all Facebook had to offer. Next
was Apple in Cupertino.
Apple has a cool campus and there was supposed to be a flagship Apple store,
but it turned out to be useless. There were some Macbooks and lots of clothing,
but it was much smaller than I had imagined. And there were no ‘geniuses’ to
help you, just dorky-looking cashiers who stood behind the counter. I thought
the Apple stores they have in the mall back home were way better than the
supposed flagship store. I also tried to get into the main building, but again
I was stopped by security.
Google Headquarters with Alex
and his dog
My final tech stop was Google in Mountain View and that’s where I hit the
jackpot. Actually, one of the couch requests I made was to a guy named Alex who
worked at Google. He wasn’t able to host me, but offered to take me on a tour.
Now I thought he was going to tell me he was an engineer or programmer or
something, but in fact, he teaches a free Kung Fu class twice a week to Google
employees. But he still gets access to all Google benefits. The Google campus
is like Disneyland, except everything is free. There
are sculptures of cupcake, frozen yogurt, éclair, gingerbread, and honeycomb –
all of which are versions of the Android operating system. There are free
bicycles you can use to get from building to building on campus. If you drive
and have an electric car, you can plug it in and charge it for free. There’s a
shuttle service that operates all over the Bay Area. For example, if you live
in San Francisco,
a bus will pick you up and drive you to and from work everyday! There’s also a
late night car service so if you’re there late at night, a free taxi will drive
you home. There’s a beach volleyball court, tennis courts, numerous classes and
many other free organized activities. There’s even a hair salon if you want to
get your haircut. What blew my mind was the free internet. Of course, Google
has free wi-fi all over campus, but they also provide free wi-fi to the entire
city of Mountain View!
And the best part of all was the free food. Alex took me for lunch where I
could eat pretty much any food I wanted: burgers, pasta, salads, sushi, pizza,
Thai, Mexican, Indian, various desserts, and every kind of beverage known to
man. I was completely overwhelmed and just wanted to eat everything – and I
probably did. Apparently, you can eat breakfast, lunch, and dinner. There’s no
reason for you to buy food at home, or even own a kitchen for that matter.
Visiting Google headquarters was definitely one of the highlights of my road
trip.
End of the access path at Santa Cruz
beach
The next day, Karl and his friend took me to Santa Cruz, which is a beach community about an hour south
from San Jose.
It was really cold there that day because it’s on the ocean. There’s a midway,
arcade, and pier. I found this ridiculous ‘access’ path on the beach that only
goes out about half way to the water. I was not impressed. We had dinner at a
restaurant on the pier where we saw wild seals. I remember telling Karl that I
was headed for the Grand Canyon and Las
Vegas and I was going to sleep in my car in the middle
of the desert. They seriously contemplated coming with me, but unfortunately
they had plans over the weekend and a test to study for. I thought I was nuts
for wanting to sleep by myself in my car in the middle of the desert, but it
turns out Karl and his friend was just as nuts as me!
Why did I drive to the middle of the
desert again?
I left early the next morning because I had a long 8 hr drive
to Mojave and I wanted to get there before dark. But I didn’t leave before
having homemade pho noodle soup his mom made for breakfast. After my longest
day of driving, I made it to a very small town called Kelso in the middle of
Mojave National Preserve. I was surprised my GPS even recognized the place. It
was scorching hot that day, even at 4pm in September. I would have died without
air conditioning in my car. There was a small visitor’s center which exhibits
the history of the desert. Everything was accessible including an elevator and
individual restroom outside. I watched a 15 min video that was very
interesting. There was even a diner in the center. It was hard to comprehend
this tiny civilization that existed in the middle of nowhere. But since it’s
technically a preserve, I guess they’re funded by National Parks and there are
trailer parks, campgrounds, and hiking trails around.
Driving through the
desert was very scenic and I saw terrain I had never seen before. I particularly
liked seeing the Joshua tree forest. As it got dark, I found a clearing behind
these large, cylindrical storage containers where I parked my car for the
night. The desert is an eerie place at night. I did see other cars, but they
were few and far between. I was always able to come to a complete stop in the
middle of the road and take pictures. When nightfall came, there was crazy
lightning in the distance and that made me think a storm was coming. But the
lightening just continued and I didn’t hear any thunder. Then the wind started
howling and ironically, it began to rain, in the desert! I knew there were
campgrounds so there probably wasn’t a major threat from animals, but sleeping
by myself in the middle of the desert with the howling wind made for a very
spooky night.
My car commercial shot
The next morning while I was brushing my teeth a truck
pulled into my clearing and this big black guy gets out followed by a woman. I
thought I was completely alone out here so you can only guess how surprised I
was. I panicked and immediately started rearranging my gear so I could drive
the hell out of there. But instead they walked in a different direction and
began looking for something. My only guess was that they were looking for
firewood, which is of course rare in the desert. And then they drove away.
Close call.
ARIZONA
Exploring Grand Canyon
After my adventures in the desert, I headed towards the Grand Canyon – my main reason for going on this road
trip. It’s a long drive to Grand Canyon. Even
after you exit Hwy 41, it still takes a little over an hour just to get to Grand Canyon – the part where all of the hotels are. As
you enter the park gates, you have pay $25 per car for a 7 day pass. Be sure to
ask for a regular map and access map which identifies all of the wheelchair
accessible trails as well as other access facilities. They will also give you a
special parking pass that will allow you to drive and park in areas that are
restricted to busses. Grand Canyon is a very
wheelchair friendly park. Once you’ve finally made it to the south rim and
parked, you can either get around by walking, biking, or taking the free
shuttles that operate all over the park. Since I was driving most of the day, I
only got to the south rum just before dusk, but I was able to enjoy a beautiful
sunset right over the Grand Canyon. It was
very picturesque. When you see Grand Canyon
for the first time, it looks like a painting. It looks surreal. It’s a
marvelous sight that I think every person should see at least once in their
lives.
For my first night in the Grand Canyon, I parked at this
viewpoint because I wanted to wakeup to see the Grand
Canyon. Sometime after midnight, while I was asleep, I get a knock
on my window and I see a big flashlight shining into my car. I thought to
myself ‘this isn’t good’. Without thinking about it, I opened the car door and
it was a park ranger who told me I can’t sleep in national parks. She asked for
my driver’s license and ran it to make sure I hadn’t already been given a
warning. So I guess now, I’m in some kind of national database of people caught
sleeping in national parks. She told me I could either go look for a real
campsite, or just drive to the nearest town and park my car and sleep. She was
actually very polite about whole thing. I think she felt bad about waking me up
and I’m sure she was nervous being all alone and having to knock on this dark
car window. She even gave me her full name and said to mention it if anyone
else bothered me. Ironically, I ended up parking my car in a hotel parking lot
and slept there. I chose that spot because my car would blend in with the
others and I could go inside the hotel and use the restroom at any time, On my
entire road trip, this was the only run-in I had with any authority.
A double rainbow at the
Grand Canyon
I spent the next day walking along the nicely paved paths of
the south rim. For the most part, I found the paved trails easy to maneuver,
but there are some sections that are steep and the path gets so narrow that my
chair can’t even fit through. In some areas, the pavement turns to dirt so I had
to turn around. But you can see plenty from the paved routes. There are fully
accessible restrooms everywhere, both flush and pit toilets.
Wheelchair parking spot for trucks
After sunset, I said goodbye to Grand
Canyon and headed for Meteor Crater. It wasn’t on my original
itinerary, but being as nerdy as I am, I wanted to check it out since it was
only a couple of hours away. For that night I slept in my car in a rest stop.
There was a large area for trucks, but there was only one truck so I parked my
car in the back and slept. In the morning I found a handicap parking spot for
trucks! I have never met a truck drive in a wheelchair, but I suppose Arizona wants equal
access for all.
Meteor Crater
Meteor Crater turned out to be the coolest roadside
attraction I’ve ever seen. It’s the world’s first proven and best preserved
impact crater. Most of the site is accessible. There’s an elevator inside.
Outside, there are two viewing decks. The main deck is accessible and you can
see everything from there, but there’s no elevator to the upper deck. People try
to trivialize the crater and say that it’s just a hole in the ground, but it’s
so much more than that. I found it to be very educational and I learned a lot
about meteors. I even bought a piece of the meteor in the gift shop.
NEVADA
Circus Circus Hotel
I booked 2 nights at Circus Circus in Las Vegas through expedia.ca. This hotel is
located on the north end of the strip and it’s nowhere near as nice as the
other hotels, but my room was clean and it only cost $30 CAN/night. Keep in
mind that most Vegas hotels charge a ‘resort fee’ which can vary from 5 to
$25/night in addition to the regular room rate. It covers things like internet,
phone, gym, pool, etc. The fee was $9/night at Circus Circus. You have to pay
it when you check. I think it’s just a cash grab that really should be built
into the room rate.
I didn’t enjoy Vegas as much as I thought I would. It can be
a very overwhelming place with all of the bright lights and sounds. The hotels
are gigantic. When I first got there, I got a hotel map and made the mistake of
thinking I could go for a leisurely stroll down the street. It took more than
an hour just to walk from one end to the other! There are hordes and hordes of
people. Everywhere you go there are solicitors who get right in your face
trying to give you cards advertising ‘escort’ services. The streets are
littered with those cards. I discovered that Vegas isn’t a great place for a
solo traveler. People are there in their own groups, and they’re there to
party. I guess I was too used to seeing natural beauty, and when I finally got
to Vegas, it was all too artificial for me.
Vegas strip at night
Surprisingly, I found it difficult getting around in a
wheelchair. There’s no real sidewalk along Las Vegas Blvd. There is in some areas,
but a lot of the time you have to kind of go into the hotel property. At many
intersections, pedestrians don’t walk across the street. They would walk up
stairs or escalator, cross a pedestrian bridge and walk down. I, on the other
hand, would have to find a hidden, slow elevator on both sides. There were some
occasions where the elevator was broken, and when that happens, I have to cross
the three other streets in the intersection just to get to the other side.
Sometimes, it would take 15 min just to cross a street! It was very
frustrating. You can try the monorail, but just getting to the monorail is a
hike, and it doesn’t stop at every hotel. There’s also public buses, but they
charge a lot (more than regular public transit because it’s the strip), and the
buses were always full. Then I remembered, I’m on a road trip and I have my own
car. So I actually just drove everywhere. There’s free parking at every hotel.
Don’t get me wrong though, I did enjoy some things about
Vegas. I was enchanted by seeing all of the glitz and glamour. I treated myself
to a show – Cirque de Soleil Zumaniti which actually had topless women.
Exploring all of the gigantic hotels was amazing including the famous Bellagio
fountains. I’d have to say my favourite hotel was Luxor which is the Egyptian themed hotel.
Las Vegas
is a strange place, geographically speaking. You have this huge, booming
metropolitan city that’s smack dab in the middle of the desert. They must use
an enormous amount of water and electricity and I don’t know where it comes
from. Once you drive out of the city though, it’s a completely baron desert
land. It’s like driving on Mars. I actually found that to be more interesting
than Vegas itself.
UTAH
Hanging out with cute Morman girls
in Salt Lake City
I only spent one day in Salt Lake City. I stayed at a very run down
Motel 6 in the downtown area. I remember the counter agent saying to me “The
only room I have left is the handicap accessible room. Is that alright?” Of
course, I said yes.
I started off at the Salt
Lake City visitor’s center downtown and saw lots of
brochures for something called Temple
Square. By the way, there’s lots of free
wheelchair parking downtown. After I entered Temple Square I went directly to the main
visitor’s center and noticed immediately this was a religious area. Next thing
I know, these two (very attractive) ladies approached me and asked if I would
like to a tour. I thought there would be a group, but it was just the three of
us. On the tour, I quickly discovered that Salt Lake City is the world headquarters of
the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints – aka Mormons. These guys
definitely have some coin because the buildings are absolutely gorgeous. I was
interested in learning about the historical significance of Mormons and the
architecture. My tour leaders however, were more interested in learning about
me and my religious beliefs. They asked what I thought about particular
paintings and sculptures. They even asked for my contact info so they could
keep in touch with me. (I gave them fake info). Overall, they were polite and did give me a good tour, but I was not
interested in joining their faith.
Olympic Stadium at U. Utah
I knew Salt Lake City
hosted the 2002 Winter Olympics so I wanted to see something related to that. I
took the light rail all the way to the University of Utah
to see Rice-Eccles Stadium where they held the opening and closing ceremonies.
I tried walking there at first, but realized quickly that their city blocks are
huge. It takes 10 min to walk one block! There’s also a small Olympic museum. I
was the only one there at the time. Public transit is free in the downtown core
and costs around a dollar elsewhere for disabled users.
IDAHO
Boise State capital
I wasn’t expecting much from Idaho (which smells like a farm everywhere
you go), but I found cool things to do and enjoyed it more than I thought I
would. I only had one day to spend here so I chose to check out the state
capital Boise.
I slept in a rest stop just outside the city and started my day at the
visitor’s center downtown. A nice lady there made some suggestions on what to
see that day.
Prison life is tough!
My first stop was the Anne Frank Memorial Garden. They had excerpts
of her diary engraved onto large stones and after reading them, I felt very
humbled. After that I wandered around the state capital building then drove to the
Old Idaho
State Penitentiary which is an old prison turned into a tourist attraction. Of
course, a prison open to the public is going to draw comparisons to Alcatraz in
San Francisco. Alcatraz is more famous and renovated, but this prison
was more authentic and rustic-looking. There may have been 5 people inside. I
pretty much had the place to myself. It’s very eerie exploring an old prison by
yourself. Everything was pretty accessible. There are ramps to get inside every
building. In the cell blocks, you can even get inside some cells, but
unfortunately you can’t get to the 2nd level.
After visiting Idaho, I
started making my way back home through eastern Oregon. This is where I saw sand dunes and
wind mill farms which were kind of cool. When the night came I found this
viewpoint on top of a hill overlooking a city. There were no clouds and it was
new moon so the stars were brilliant. It reminded me a lot of that night I
spent in my car in Lake SuperiorPark on my cross Canada road trip. Again, it was
just me, my car, my gear, and all the stars. This is the stuff road trips are
made of.
I thought about sleeping there that night, but then I
remembered the incident I had back at the beach viewpoint in Crescent City, California.
So I continued on and had a heck of a time finding a place to park for my last
night sleeping in my car. The rest stops I passed were small and very busy, so
I knew I wasn’t going to get much sleep there. I actually ended up sleeping in
a church parking lot. It was quiet, secluded, and I was pretty sure no one
would bother me there.
On my last day of driving, I stopped by an outlet mall just
east of Portland.
I wanted to take advantage of some tax-free shopping before going home, but
there were no stores I was interested so I was quite disappointed by that.
Ending odometer reading
This Western US road trip
was a great adventure for me. I visited new cities and drove across terrain I
had never seen before. I wished I had more time to visit more places like
southern California, Phoenix, New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming,
and North Dakota.
Overall, I was very impressed with the accessibility during my travels. Every
parking lot I pulled into, even the ones in the middle of the desert, had
designated handicap spots. Every city had free handicap parking downtown. Every
rest stop had accessible rest rooms. Every attraction I visited, except for SeaLionCaves, was at least
mostly accessible if not fully. Public transportation was great when I had to
use it. And most importantly, people were always polite to me and willing to
help.
